After the lovely stay at Isanga Bay (refer to Excursion to Lake Tanganyika blog post), we journeyed back to Mpulungu using the speed boat in hopes to also see the Kalambo Falls before returning to Kasama. The drive from Mpulungu to Kalambo Falls, via Mbala, was fairly smooth and we managed to get to the Kalambo falls in under 4 hours as the roads after Mbala were gravelled and in a good condition.
There were sign posts along the gravel road, but we were advised to just keep right until we got the the Great Kalambo Falls Lodge signage, where we decided to park the vehicle as the road became quite rocky and begun to steeply descend into the valley. It was amazing to realise that from where we were parked, we could actually see Tanzania on the other hillside. The signage around the junction indicated that the falls were 1.5kms down hill but I tell you, nothing about that walk felt like it was 1.5km. As we descended it became more and more apparent that we would be in for a serious work out on our return. I highly recommend making sure you have comfortable, light weight trainers and water, lots and lots of water.
We eventually got to the welcome shelter and got to learn a little history about the waterfall from a local guide, who then took us further down a trail of stairs to the point where the Kalambo River swirls and eventually falls over 200 meters into the gorge below. The Kalambo River, which forms part of the border line between Zambia and Tanzania, makes its dramatic drop as the Kalambo Falls (🇿🇲 – Right, 🇹🇿 – Left) and it then flows through the lush valley into Lake Tanganyika.
The walk back uphill to the Kalambo Falls Lodge Kiosk and eventually to vehicle was an intense work out, but, witnessing the beauty of this northernmost waterfall was well worth it.
The worst did happen! I tried to rest my back and got too comfortable leaning on one side of the kayak and 💦 my big ol’ self tipped over into the lake. In an instance, the natural thing happened, I panicked and splashed until I realized staying calm and calling for help was my best option. I took deep breaths and allowed myself to just float and once I did, swimming to shore was a breeze.
Thankfully the this side of the lake does not normally have any crocs and hippos and of course being able to swim is highly recommended if you’re going to paddle yourself onto the second deepest freshwater lake in the world.
Sunsets and Sunrise at the Lake
As an afternoon activity, the rest of the gang who were part of the trip decided to go and experience the tube line at the Kalambo Falls Lodge, a neighbouring property accessible by boat. I opted out of this as I felt spent from the morning swim in the lake and needed a moment to be still and just enjoy the fresh breeze under the palms, it was a vacation after all.
So, I just sat and watched the sun set on the Tanganyika with dark clouds gathering in the distance. A storm was brewing, lightning almost splitting the clash of grays, orange, yellows and navy blues; all in a spectacle of natures might, gentleness and calm. What is more mesmerizing is how tinkles the sausage dog on the property also joined me in enjoying the ambiance provided by the soothing ripple of the lake and sunset on the horizon. Only views like that can truly calm even an animal.
The next morning, I tiptoed back to the beach to watch the sunrise and get one last look at the spots around the bay before our departure. It was rewarding to swing over the beach and just exhale.
I signed up for a group excursion hosted by African Vacations and GlobalSmash and got to visit the Northern-most region of Zambia where our great nation meets the waters of the Tanganyika. This was the longest journey I have taken since I began my Zungulile Zambia adventure, it was just over 1000 km away from home. Thankfully I was not the one behind the wheel and this meant I could snooze and catch-up on writing. We drove through the Lusaka Province, Central Province, Muchinga Province and eventually arrived in Kasama in the Northern Province where we spent a restful night at Alitasha Lodge.
We left Kasama on the next day and drove through the countryside which was covered in meadows of greenery with occasional settlements along the M1 road, until we got to the scenic highlands at Senga Hill, where it was evident to witness why this side of the Northern Province is ripe for tourism. The area had vast spaces with scenic highland landscapes, small water features dotted along the countryside with such clean air quality; my mind could not help but think of the opportunity for hiking trips, woodland retreats and camping excursions. The area after Mbala – Mpulungu T-junction actually formed the apex of these views as the rift towers over valley that gradually descends into the Mpulungu harbour, where it eventually meets the sea of fresh water we call Tanganyika. We made several stops on the way just to take in the views in and get a few photographs too.
Mpulungu
This simple ol’ town is the southernmost point of the Lake Tanganyika and marks the end of the Great North Road. We had a quick drive through town which had several stores and numerous mobile money booths, a good sign that there is potential for industry. We proceeded to head towards the Mpulungu harbour where we would be taking a boat to our final destination. On our way there we stopped by one of Zambia’s national monuments, the Niamkolo Church.
Niamkolo Church
Though it has no roof, Niamkolo is known to be oldest surviving stone church in the country and was declared a National Monument. Niamkolo was built by the London Missionary Society missionaries who also journeyed to Zambia after David Livingstone. The church served as a place of worship continuously until 1908, when the mission post was moved inland to avoid the sleeping sickness carried by tsetse flies. Today, only remnants of the church exist but it is a marvelous sight to appreciate when you realize it is still standing, 127+ years later. Visiting the site is free but visitors are not allowed to gain access into the central part of the church. You can only view it from outside. Click here to see a short tour of the Niamkolo Church.
The Mpulungu harbour was just downhill from the Naimkolo Church and we could smell the freshly caught fish in the air as we approach the marketplace. It is from here that we took the last leg of our long journey, via boat, to our final destination ~ Isanga Bay. See more of the boat ride to Isanga Bay here
Isanga Bay
Getting to Isanga from the Mpulungu bay was an adventure of it own. After getting to the Harbour we loaded our personal effects into a local speed boat that sailed for 30 minutes to the Isanga Bay, where we were greeted by the brown sandy beaches, palms trees and Yolanda, the manager of the property. Isanga offers three beachfront chalets and three woodland rondavels that have proximity to the rock-laden frontage of the lake.
I enjoyed Isanga’s hospitality, but I should caution other visitors about the food service at the lodge. From what I gather, COVID-19 negatively impacted their operations as they too had to let go of some experienced staff in the kitchen. They are doing their best to make ends meet but I would recommend you carry your own snacks, foods and beverages as a backup to what is on offer.
I loved my time beside Lake Tanganyika, experiencing the thrills of kayaking on the Lake and swimming back to shore after tumbling over. Thankfully this side of the Tanganyika does not normally have any crocs and hippos and of course being able to swim is highly recommended if you’re going to paddle yourself onto the second deepest freshwater lake in the world. The serenity of sipping sundowners under the palms, watching the time roll away was a great equaliser to the thrills of the trip and I would definitely recommend a visit to this beautiful region of Zambia.
Located at the top of a hill, in the Ibex Meanwood area of Lusaka, the Lusaka Legacy Resort and Conference Centre is a good space for some peace and quiet in an African-inspired aesthetic with a killer view and loads of fresh air.
The Legacy has five villa’s that house a mix of conference facilities on the first floor and accommodation on the ground and bottom floors, you would actually see the distinct large, thatched roofs of the villa’s as you drive up the hill. The Resort also has a restaurant that is open to residents and walk-in visitors which serves continental food options. The restaurant area is also home to an inviting infinity pool for you to soak and relax after having a meal and a few drinks.
The surrounding grounds of the resort have a trail that is good for a jog or leisurely stroll and an open ground with a play area for visitors of all ages. Residents have access to various amenities including fire-pits, a fully equipped gym, massage rooms, a game room, lobby wine bar and complimentary parking. I enjoyed my time here and had no complaints as the facilities were acceptable, but I have come to learn that this was not the case for other guests at the time. I was happy to learn the team at the Legacy were responsive and resolved the complaints promptly.
Lusaka National Museum is currently hosting the “Building an Art Bridge between Italy and Zambia” exhibition where six Italian artists and twelve Zambian artists are exhibiting their work.
The art on display includes paintings, sculptures, installations, photography and video, all aimed at using the language of contemporary art to address the socio-economic issues that Zambians and Italians face, in a creative and stimulating way. Exhibition will run until 19th June 2022 and it is absolutely free.
Adventures with BoBoBongz 